Bow Hunting Large Mule Deer Bucks

Please check out: http://TheThrillSociety.com It’s wicked Thrilling!

This article is all about bow hunting mule deer, but many of the concepts discussed will work well for rifle hunting mule deer as well.

Overview

Male mule deer fall into two categories. Super dumb or super smart. When a mule deer buck is younger, say below three years of age, they can be incredibly easy to hunt. If they make it past their early, stupid years, it’s almost like they flip a switch and become super smart. This article is about the super smart ones.

Ambushing

In previous articles we have discussed ambushing elk and antelope. I am sure there are places that an ambush is possible, however generally speaking ambushing large mule deer is not feasible.

Calling

We have also discussed calling as a method of hunting elk and antelope, however calling doesn’t really work with large mule deer. I have successfully stopped a mule deer from walking using a honking sound that mimics their alarm honk. Honking can work well if you need a buck to stop walking away from you to present a shot, but I would not really label honking as calling.

Stalking

So that leaves a hunter with stalking as the only available method of hunting large mule deer. When we discussed methods of bow hunting elk I wrote about slow stalking elk in dense timber. Elk can be discovered in dense timber and stalked upon. However, large bucks will sneak away long before you get close to them. In most cases you will never see them or know they were there at all.

Glassing

In order to stalk large bucks you have to see them first. The only way you will see them first is to get yourself in a position before daylight to overlook a large expanse of mule deer infested countryside. Get up high, hide yourself, and plan on spending the day glassing.

Large mule deer bucks are mainly nocturnal. They will spend all night feeding and all day hiding and sleeping. Bucks will always hid in place that has multiple escape routes and allows them a vantage point to scan the surrounding terrain. That is why you can’t hope to spot a large buck while walking.

Many times while glassing for large bucks I have seen a buck get up from a place I had no idea was hiding a buck, walk 10 paces, relieve himself, and then return to their bed. Even after seeing exactly where the buck laid down it is nearly impossible to find it.

Click HERE to visit the TTS store filled with original products! 

Proper Gear

If your going to spend all day glassing be sure to bring proper clothing that will allow you to remain immobile. The morning hours can be very cold. If you get up and walk around to warm up you will alert every buck within a couple mile radius. I generally pack a sleeping bag covered with a bivey sack for just this occasion. The bivey sack is simply a water-proof shell that surrounds your sleeping bag to keep it dry and clean. I will generally take my boots off and climb in the bag for the morning to stay warm while I am glassing.

Be sure to hide in place that will allow for convenient bathroom breaks. Remember you will need to remain hidden all day.

Glass your area by working in a grid pattern to make sure you cover all of the terrain. Look for ears or sections of horn. Pay special attention to bases of trees and rocky areas.

I will be honest. Glassing is not very fun. It gets very old, very fast. If your not doing a good job you are wasting your time. Glass for 5 minutes and then take a small break. You will have to glass over the same terrain many times. As the sun shifts in the sky shadows may disappear, the buck may move it’s head just enough to be visible, that odd looking branch may turn out to be part of a huge rack. Keep glassing.

Plan Your Stalking Route

Once you have spotted a buck, spend some time figuring out your route to sneak up on the buck. Stay hidden by terrain as long as possible. Try to find landmarks that will give you guidance when you get closer to the buck.

Keep spotting the area once you have found your target buck. Large mule deer bucks will often bed with other large bucks. You have to find them all before you start your stalk. Assume there is another buck with your target buck until you can prove with more glassing that there is only one buck.

When you get within a hundred yards from the buck you will really have to slow down. Get on you knees and start crawling. Move slowly and quietly. The last 100 yards could take hours to cover.

Of course the wind has to be in your favor. If the wind shifts you have to abort the stalk immediately. If the buck winds you, you are done.

In Bow Range

When you get within bow range of your target buck you will need to have the buck standup to take a shot. This can be a tricky procedure because you want the buck alarmed enough to standup, but not too alarmed or he will race off without giving you a shot.

Before you get close to your buck put a few small stones in your pocket. When you get within bow range, toss a stone over the buck if possible, or in a direction that will make the buck focus away from you. Often times the clatter of small stone will alarm the buck enough to standup without running away.

Conclusion

Every hunt is different. Often times the difference between failure and success is the ability to improvise. Think about each situation and do your best to put yourself within bow range.

Harvesting a large, mule deer buck with a bow is extremely challenging. However, with a lot, and I mean a lot of patience it is possible.

Follow TTS on YouTube by clicking HERE!

Do you have a Thrilling video, photo, story or music you would like to see on our site? Send us your stuff by clicking HERE!

If we post your stuff you will win a TTS logo t-shirt!

TTS Swag Winner Naomi!

The Thrill Of The Hunt: Bow Hunting Elk

http://thethrillsociety.com is your link to Thrilling Stuff! This article is just a taste!

There are very few things you can do with your pants on that are as thrilling as calling in 700 pound screaming, bull elk within 20 yards. The experience will leave you shaking at the knees.

There are basically three ways of bow hunting an elk; stalking, calling, and ambushing.

Stalking

Elk can be stalked. It is difficult, but it can be done. A bow hunter can locate an elk by calling it or observing it from afar and then start stalking or slow stalking in heavy timber without an elk spotted.

Lets examine slow stalking first. This technique is generally used when you are in an elk area, but don’t have an elk located. This is a great technique for afternoon hunting. The usual pattern for elk is to eat all night, move to their day bedding area in the morning, sleep all day, and in the evening start moving to their feeding area.

During bow season the weather is generally warm so elk will be bedded on a north-facing slope in heavy timber. The idea is to spot an elk before it spots you. You must move slowly and quietly. I will walk ten feet, stop behind a tree, scan the area thoroughly, and then walk another ten feet. When I come to the top of a hill or rising terrain I carefully scan ahead before totally exposing my body on the higher elevation. Scan the area for parts of elk like an ear or horn not for a complete elk body.

Calling

Lets examine locating an elk by calling. A hunter basically has a cow call or bugle at their disposal for locating an elk by sound.

Cow Call

A cow call or mew type sound can be used at short distances. Elk mew year around. If you ever get close to a herd you will hear a lot of mewing especially at night. Cow calling can be very effective on bulls or cows. I have had elk come right into bow range with a cow call and I have had them hang up out of sight waiting for the caller to show themselves. If an elk hangs up a technique I have used several times is quickly backing up, finding an open area, erecting a Montana Decoy, and then back up an additional 20 yards behind the decoy. Next position yourself in a good ambush location and call away from the elk or in softer volume. The idea is to fool the elk that you are moving away. If the elk follows you it will see the Montana decoy and hopefully start to feel more comfortable with the situation and move closer for a shot.

I have used cow calls every 15 minutes are so as I have slow-stalked in heavy timber with success. If an elk cow calls back while you are stalking you have a chance to use the Montana Decoy trick.

Be careful while setting up decoys. Make sure you are hidden during the assembly process. I have been sighted by elk a couple of times while assembling a decoy and then it is game over. I like the Montana decoy because it can be set up quickly and quietly. When waiting behind a decoy I like to sit on my knees instead of standing. Elk quickly feel threatened by a standing human, but a human on their knees can fool an elk into thinking it is not a threat.

I recommend learning how to cow call with a mouth diaphragm call to keep your hands free.  For short distances learn to make the mewing sound with your mouth.

Bugling

I have a love hate relationship with bugling. I have had elk come right into a bugle and I have had them run the other direction. When a bow hunter bugles he/she is really rolling the dice.

A herd bull with cows may move his herd away from a bugle. He doesn’t want the competition for his herd. If a bull continues to bugle, but gets further and further away you can try to pursue the bull. This can lead to a long chase that generally leads to a chance for lots of cardio.

If the bull is far enough away from your bugle he may just call back and stay put. In this case I would stop bugling, move as close as possible to the bull, set up a Montana Decoy and start cow calling. This is a higher percentage play than moving in closer and bugling. A cow call is not a threat to the bull and in his brain a potential addition to his herd. A bugle will threaten the bull and in most cases he will move his herd further away. In rare cases the bull with come charging into fend off a threat to his herd. In most instances I have found bulls to be chickens and run away or play the show me game way more than charging in for a fight.

Click HERE to visit the TTS store filled with original products! 

After wolves were reintroduced into Montana bulls pretty much stopped bugling. I guess they found out quickly that bugling was calling in predators as well as warning other bulls about their presence. If I hear any bugling at all in wolf infested areas it is more of a ¼ bugle only heard from about 100 yards away.

Another situation I have found bugling to be pretty useless is areas that have high concentrations of elk. In these areas the herd bulls have cows and will not come to bugle at all.

I have used bugling with success as a locator by calling before daylight. When the sun does finally start peaking over the horizon a bow hunter has a direction to start hunting.

Be sure that whenever you are calling that you constantly check behind you. I can’t tell you the number of times I have had a satellite bull sneak up behind me during a calling sequence.

Ambushing

Ambushing works well if you know the pattern of an elk. An ambush can be set up in a tree stand or some type of ground blind. This technique works well around water in desert climates or near a wallow. Cow calling can work well with the ambushing technique. Just be alert for the elk that comes in silently.

Next topic: Bow Hunting Antelope

Follow TTS on YouTube by clicking HERE!

Do you have a Thrilling video, photo, story or music you would like to see on our site? Send us your stuff by clicking HERE!

If we post your stuff you will win a TTS logo t-shirt!

TTS Music Winner Big EEZY

Edit

The Thrill Of The Hunt: Extra Bow Hunting Gear

Please check out: http://TheThrillSociety.com It’s wicked Thrilling!

So far in the Thrill of The Hunt we have discussed bow hunting equipment and what to wear. In this article we will discuss the extras that should always be with you on the hunt. Many of the items I will discuss are important for bow hunting or rifle hunting.

Baby Powder

Always carry a small squeeze bottle of baby powder to determine the wind direction. A hunter can fool an animals eyes and ears, but you will never fool its’ nose. I plan to write an entire article on this topic soon, but until then always make sure you know the wind direction. I carry a small bottle of baby powder in my front pocket on all hunts except bird hunts. I check the wind religiously every 10 minutes on calm days. I like baby powder because I can smell it and see it. Give the bottle a good squeeze and watch it drift with the wind.

Cover Scents

While we are on the topic of scent and I promise to cover this topic in more detail in future articles, just know there is not a cover scent or clothing made on the planet that will hide your scent. Debate this topic all you want, but the bottom line is that if you breathe you make scent. So leave the elk urine cover scent and expensive scent blocking clothing at the store, because it is all a waste of money.

Boning Your Animal In The Field

Years ago I came to the realization that gutting an animal and dragging it out whole is a complete waste of time. Why do I want to lug an entire critter home to only throw away the bones and hide? Why not leave the bones and hide in the forest for a critter to snack on with joy? I also process my own meat so having a bag of meat already boned and ready to process saves a lot of time.

To bone an animal in the field and I promise to cover this topic in more detail in future articles, I need a 10 ft. sheet of plastic, several plastic garbage bags, a gallon size, zip-loc bag, two sets of plastic gloves, a few wet wipes, and knife.

Click HERE to visit the TTS store filled with original products! 

The sheet of plastic provides a nice work area free of dirt and grime.   I like to use plastic gloves to keep my hands somewhat clean after deboning the animal. I bring two sets because plastic gloves have a tendency to rip. Wet wipes are handy for cleaning up after taking care of the animal and for an emergency bathroom stop. After deboning the animal I use the garbage bags to store the meat for the hike out and in my freezer if I don’t process the meat right away. Don’t put hot meat into the plastic, garbage bags. Let the meat cool down on the sheet of plastic before putting it in garbage bags. Use the gallon size zip-loc bag to put the sheet of plastic, gloves, and your knife after deboning the animal to keep things tidy.

Hunting Knifes

There are many types of knifes on the market, but I am a huge fan of the Kershaw brand of knifes with interchangeable blades. The last thing I want to do while deboning an animal is sharpen my knife. I carry four spare blades and a saw blade to remove the horns. It will normally take two blades for a deer size animal and four blades for an elk size animal.

Water

Always carry plenty of water. I started with a plastic bottle of water and after years of experimenting with all kinds of fancy bladder and tube contraptions I am right back to using a plastic bottle of water. A water bottle is no fuss, no muss, and easy to clean. Plus it is harder for the water bottle to freeze in cold weather as compared to tube water systems.

Food

Always carry plenty of food. Hunting burns a lot of calories and it you don’t want to end a hunt early because you are hungry. God forbid you get lost, but extra food is handy to have just in case.

I like to carry 50 ft. of climber-grade rope. Rope is always handy for a variety of uses.

Camouflage

Camo is a very personalized item. I don’t like anything on my face unless it is cold. I find any type of cloth face camo can interfere with my bow draw. I like to use a small, camo compact with three colors black, green, and brown. I can take three fingers, each with different color and quickly apply it to my face. The compact also has a small mirror so I can check to make sure my face is covered adequately. A hunter does not have to completely cover every inch of skin, military style. Just break up any solid color of skin.

Backpacks

Backpacks are also a very personalized item. Over the years I have been through a lot of backpacks. I personally use the Dwight Schuh, Fieldline, Mega, plastic frame backpack. For most day hunts I only use the bottom section of the pack. If I get an animal down I can pack out a deer with this pack or get the first load of an elk packed out. This is a major over kill of a backpack for a day hunt, but it is so nice to take load a meat to the pickup from the kill site. I find this pack to be very comfortable and I really like the multiple tie down points and flexibility that this backpack offers.

That pretty well covers what a bow hunter needs for equipment for a successful hunt.

In the next article we will discuss bowhunting elk.

Follow TTS on YouTube by clicking HERE!

Do you have a Thrilling video, photo, story or music you would like to see on our site? Send us your stuff by clicking HERE!

If we post your stuff you will win a TTS logo t-shirt!

IG Photo Contest Winner @chiaraocchi